The long run

Dirtbag climber, James Lucas, talks about how climbers should give 80% of their effort on most days out. Which isn’t something you hear in today’s culture — to leave something in the tank rather than give 110%. But climbing, especially on lead, is as much a mental game as it is physical. And if you always give it your all on the scariest climb, you will burn out quickly.

There is something to be said when you feel confident and climbing well below your hardest grade, where you can focus on the climbing and not worry about falling at all. In other words, building a "coast feature" into our lives can be widely frowned upon. Yet, those who learn to stay productive and engaged while finding incremental success tend not to burn out as easily. They survive to be there in the long run.

Life is indeed a marathon for a reason. Someone showing up day after day, putting in max effort, might be an incredible Olympic gymnast. And then they are done by 16.

Excellence comes in many forms. Sometimes in accolades and achievements. Other times, most of the time, it is showing up when no one is watching. I don’t climb because I get paid to do it. I do it cause its a great way to spend my time. There is a poetry/graceful element in the movement itself — like doing yoga with a rope. Just moving like this has meaning despite the grade.

And maybe that is excellence too.

Yes, you should try hard in things you love. Rewards and accolades are nice to pursue, but they aren't the "why."

Living in the space of the "long run" isn't something we arrive at without showing up for many days of "I don't really want to be here right now." Pushing through today to get somewhere way down the road of "someday" can't be done by optimization alone.